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-   -   Gundam Models Discussion Thread (http://forums.animesuki.com/showthread.php?t=23320)

vektar 2009-04-14 16:27

i read once of someone using like wood protector as a top coat, with good results. I would think that would have to be done by hand. Of course I would never do it my self.

sempai 2009-04-15 00:05

I plan on doing a Gundam showcase at my convention in Florida. I have a master modeler coming to give a demo on modeling and stuff. I was thinking of having a showcase and auction.

Does anyone have any advice for me while I plan on organizing this?

JayCee 2009-04-15 02:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by sempai (Post 2341645)
I plan on doing a Gundam showcase at my convention in Florida. I have a master modeler coming to give a demo on modeling and stuff. I was thinking of having a showcase and auction.

Does anyone have any advice for me while I plan on organizing this?

Depends on what intentions you have for you're convention. Is it to promote sales revenue? Introduce to new audience? Promotional? Got to be a little bit more specific. Reason > Aim > Progress > Result :)

M_Flores 2009-04-15 02:26

Still a work in progress...


Amber.Dawn 2009-04-15 02:28

You're getting there.

M_Flores 2009-04-15 02:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amber.Dawn (Post 2341816)
You're getting there.

Is there anything you might suggest though? I am also a panel lining noob. I'm also gonna display the O Raiser crashed once I'm finished building it, like it also shows in the Trust You ending.

Eventually, I'll even do the other 3 Gundams in their battle-ravaged positions in different locations in my room as if a war broke out ^^.

darkstrife 2009-04-15 05:36

would you guys recommend the tamiya flat clear spray?

http://www.hlj.com/product/TAMTS-80

is there a substantial difference between the tamiya spray and the Mr hobby clear flat spray?

JayCee 2009-04-15 05:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkstrife (Post 2342027)
would you guys recommend the tamiya flat clear spray?

http://www.hlj.com/product/TAMTS-80

is there a substantial difference between the tamiya spray and the Mr hobby clear flat spray?


Not much difference between both tamiya flat clear and hobby flat clear as they're both lacquer based. But as mentioned before they can eat into paint and decals if sprayed too heavily. They're best applied over lacquers or fully cured acrylic paints.

In a nutshell flat clear lacquer spray usually give a better finish when done right as it's more stronger than Gunze Topcoat. But Gunze topcoat is more versatile and safer option as it's water soluble and doesn't eat into paint or decals.

Also lacquer sprays are prone to "frosting" when sprayed too close or applied too much so extra care and attention is required.

Kelrys 2009-04-15 08:42

Mr. Bushido's Ahead
 
Finished my Bushido's Ahead
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...2/Image507.jpg

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...2/Image512.jpg

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...2/Image515.jpg

MakubeX2 2009-04-15 09:47

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/1072/1239724616922.jpg
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/7...9724638070.jpg

C.A. 2009-04-15 09:50

QT-ARMS?

What is this based on? Looks quite amazing.

MakubeX2 2009-04-15 09:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by C.A. (Post 2342428)
QT-ARMS?

What is this based on? Looks quite amazing.

http://hk.myblog.yahoo.com/ambroseyin

As you can see, Dengeki Hobby crownded the guy overall champion of Gunpla for 2008.

C.A. 2009-04-15 09:54

Ah I see, Dragonspawn of Warcraft, those monsters are cool.

JayCee 2009-04-15 10:20

I read that gunplay champ article too. Definately a innovative design I must say.

justsomeguy 2009-04-15 10:32

Does anybody have experience separating skirt armor? I would like to get the HGUC Alex, but it seems that the front skirt is one piece only, and even worse does not have those ridges to keep the two halves in if separated. How do I solve this problem? (Without resorting to putty)

JayCee 2009-04-15 10:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by justsomeguy (Post 2342494)
Does anybody have experience separating skirt armor? I would like to get the HGUC Alex, but it seems that the front skirt is one piece only, and even worse does not have those ridges to keep the two halves in if separated. How do I solve this problem? (Without resorting to putty)

Only way I can think of that is relatively simple to do is cut the middle tube that connects the two skirts in half and reconnect it with a 3rd tube inside it so it's a snug fit between the skirts. Not so tight but enough to swivel the 2 skirts up and down. However that method limits skirt movement to up and down only and only works if the tubing of the skirt is hollow. Free movement skirt will either have to remod the skirt with a ball joint and/or some putty work.

justsomeguy 2009-04-15 11:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayCee (Post 2342536)
Only way I can think of that is relatively simple to do is cut the middle tube that connects the two skirts in half and reconnect it with a 3rd tube inside it so it's a snug fit between the skirts. Not so tight but enough to swivel the 2 skirts up and down. However that method limits skirt movement to up and down only and only works if the tubing of the skirt is hollow. Free movement skirt will either have to remod the skirt with a ball joint and/or some putty work.

The connecting tube is usually wider than normal rod joints, so polycaps won't work. So I will have to either find small plastic discs to glue on, or find a perfectly snug plastic tube and cut it to the right length, to serve as end-caps.

JayCee 2009-04-15 12:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by justsomeguy (Post 2342590)
The connecting tube is usually wider than normal rod joints, so polycaps won't work. So I will have to either find small plastic discs to glue on, or find a perfectly snug plastic tube and cut it to the right length, to serve as end-caps.

Curiosity question. Why not work with putty? They're relatively simple and easy to use:confused:

justsomeguy 2009-04-15 13:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayCee (Post 2342737)
Curiosity question. Why not work with putty? They're relatively simple and easy to use:confused:

In that case, can you recommend me whatever brand and specific type you use? I want something fast-drying and does not require a separate hardener.

JayCee 2009-04-15 14:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by justsomeguy (Post 2342792)
In that case, can you recommend me whatever brand and specific type you use? I want something fast-drying and does not require a separate hardener.

Tamiya epoxy putty is relatively quick and cures fully within 5-6 hours. There are other alternatives that cure within 20min. However it all depends on size and amount of modding required which makes the curing time all relative.

Personally I never had a problem with Tamiya's stuff. I tend to leave it to cure overnight for scratch building

*edit referring to Tamiya epoxy quick type*

justsomeguy 2009-04-15 14:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayCee (Post 2342898)
Tamiya epoxy putty is relatively quick and cures fully within 5-6 hours

Thanks. I'll see how it turns out.

Sworra 2009-04-15 18:33

Hi I'm new to this forum page but i have been reading a lot of the posts that people have been posting.. I have a quick question but just wanted more opinions about my question. Is it true that you can use Mr.Surfacer 500 as a primer. or is it a putty? I'm a bit confused to what you can use it for? both or one or the other.

Thanks.

JayCee 2009-04-16 02:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sworra (Post 2343545)
Hi I'm new to this forum page but i have been reading a lot of the posts that people have been posting.. I have a quick question but just wanted more opinions about my question. Is it true that you can use Mr.Surfacer 500 as a primer. or is it a putty? I'm a bit confused to what you can use it for? both or one or the other.

Thanks.

You're on the right track. Some people use it as an alternative to a primer. In general Mr surfacer is used to fill in surface imperfects and defects as you prime. However it shouldn't be used as a general primer. You should see Mr filler as a filler of convenience where using putty might be too much.

In a nutshell:
Primer = painting adhesive/defects spotter
Mr surfacer = filler .

Hope that helps

muffinkevin 2009-04-16 02:58

Where did you find that wallapaper for your PS3? Can you post it?

Astrana 2009-04-16 04:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by muffinkevin (Post 2344186)
Where did you find that wallapaper for your PS3? Can you post it?

i think thats a modded PS3 since all the icon are custom as well

duotiga 2009-04-16 07:38

release today
http://www.1999.co.jp/itbig08/10083921.jpg
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10083921

http://www.1999.co.jp/itbig08/10083918.jpg
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10083918

http://www.1999.co.jp/itbig08/10083869.jpg
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10083869

LightningZERO 2009-04-16 08:08

Sword Impulse!!! Amazing!!!

duotiga 2009-04-16 08:16

teaser for 1/100 00 raiser designer color + gn sword III rear view

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3542/...19fc5bb385.jpg

Tormenk 2009-04-16 08:20

*bellows an almighty roar at Bandai*

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayCee (Post 2340529)
Yes it is possible. Though spray cans are much easier to use for a good levelled layer.

(Though I cannot confirm if Gunze has liquid topcoats. I know there are some out there of a different brand.)

*edit: If you ever find any resources on handpainting topcoats I'm more than interested on hearing about it. To be honest it's almost unheard of as it's just uncommon to handpaint topcoats. About the only thing I can think of is women who do nail varnishes that applies liquid topcoats. Although suitable for their purpose not for gunplay of course*

Sure thing. :nod:

Well at least it confirms that possibility. I've been turning over the idea of spraying the topcoat into a jar and applying it on by hand since I tend to miss out spots when spraying. Not entirely sure how viable it is though. :heh:

LoweGear 2009-04-16 08:27


LordStrike 2009-04-16 08:51

hey all i got one question is there an HG 1/100 Gundam Exia (Roll-out Color) out already or is it going to come out? any one knows?

Tormenk 2009-04-16 08:55

There is a NG 1/100 Exia in roll-out colors already available.

kakakka 2009-04-16 08:56

You mean No Grade 1/100? I think they already released it. I remember seeing one from the store I usually look for Gundam Models.

EDIT: Late ><

LordStrike 2009-04-16 08:58

ok cool thx for the info im sooo going to get the exia roll-out colors

C.A. 2009-04-16 09:02

Hmmm there's the Gundam Unicorn Titanium Finish Version, is there any news for a special finish Sinanju?

I'm thinking of buying both Unicorn and Sinanju, but I like to be consistent in versions. I'll either buy both normal versions of if there's a special finish Sinanju, I'll get both special finish versions.

Tormenk 2009-04-16 09:10

None so far but given Bandai's tendencies, a special finish Sinaju is still possible.

Though I'm not sure how appealing it would be after having to put a ton of stickers onto a special finish Sinaju. But that's just me. :)

Edit: and to share the general idea how a special version Sinaju might look like here's two examples. Not to worry the second image is shown upright despite the thumbnail preview.

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...ic_sinanju.jpg http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...th_Blinaju.jpg

C.A. 2009-04-16 09:17

Hmmm I'm mostly considering Titanium Unicorn because I heard it has the gatling gun, or some other extra weapon.

I'm also fine with saving some bucks with the normal Unicorn though.

Tormenk 2009-04-16 09:22

That would be incorrect. The Titanium finish does not come with the gatling gun(s).

C.A. 2009-04-16 09:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tormenk (Post 2344637)
That would be incorrect. The Titanium finish does not come with the gatling gun(s).

I see lol, I think I'll stick with normal versions then.

I think Sinanju looks better in metallic than Unicorn.

M_Flores 2009-04-16 09:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by muffinkevin (Post 2344186)
Where did you find that wallapaper for your PS3? Can you post it?

I found the wallpaper in this forum, actually. It's in the Image Thread, in one of the pages (I'll try and find the page and throw you a PM later).


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