2007-09-11, 23:43 | Link #702 |
Storm of Her Wrath
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Singapore
Age: 40
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Both. It was interesting to note that the primer seems as though it just dried on the resin and not bitten into the resin. I understand that there are different kinds of lacquer thinner in the market. Would using, say AAA grade industrial thinner be any different from thinning with Mr Colour Thinner?
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2007-09-12, 01:19 | Link #703 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Age: 48
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I found that industrial thinner is much stronger than mr color thinner and can cause damage to plastic. I use industrial thinner to clean my airbrush and tools, but not to thin paints.
Ok, next question. How long did you let the primer sit before painting the next color, and also how long did you wait after you painted the color before you masked? I usually let the primer sit for a full 24 hours before going on to spray on paint. Then wait another full 24 hours before masking. This is with using lacquer paints. For enamel and acrylic, I would need to wait even longer.
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2007-09-14, 03:10 | Link #704 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Age: 48
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Earlier this week, I sprayed on the lighter shade of skin tone for some shading. After this, progress pretty much slowed way the heck down. Progres is taking a little bit because I want to apply a tattoo; which adds a couple of days worth of cure times into the equation. After the lighter skin tone dried, I sprayed on a layer of future floor polish to help facilitate the decal adhesion. Had to spray all the skin parts to keep the tone consistant. Then applied the decal, decal softener, and another layer of future floor polish. Another day passes and I was able to spray on the flat coat, which happened tonight.
I did however, get to finish painting, masking, more painting, and finally clear coating the weapon parts. My usual tatoo :lol:
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2007-09-15, 19:25 | Link #707 |
Part Time Hikikomori
Join Date: May 2007
Location: In the state of a deep trance
Age: 47
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Here's shots of my currently limited collection. But if you want to talk about making guests nervous when they first walk in the house...
I'm a bit miffed at the quality of the Mikuru figure though. It only stood up for about a week. Then I braced the floating knee with an acrylic rod. It still falls down on 85+ degree days. Chii, however, stands tall to this day without anything special. That's okay though... I like Chii better. |
2007-09-17, 03:39 | Link #708 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Age: 48
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First half of the build gathering saw most of Midori masked and painted. For the hair, I painted the base color with wine red, then shaded with russet. Then I applied a gloss clear coat to seal and protect the paint. Today I got to applying the filter/fade to add some tonal variance to the hair.
Before and after pictures: To see the entire process from start to finish for the hair, go here: http://gamerabaenre.com/midori_prog.htm She's almost done:
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2007-09-20, 18:12 | Link #709 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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I've seen you post several of these, Gamera, and I just have to say I respect your skills and dedication. I wouldn't have nearly enough of either to put those kits together.
Anyone have experience with more dynamically posed figures? I've been hoping for a Nadie one (El Cazador de le Bruja) and I've found this: http://www.alter-web.jp/figure/08/01_2/index.html But with only one leg for support... Wouldn't the weight cause leaning, or even bending? |
2007-09-21, 00:37 | Link #710 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: China
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I would imagine that having only 1 peg to support the entire figure would cause some leaning - if not immediately, then by a day or two. Its center of balance must be well-calculated, IMHO, to be able to be supported like that, and it's a mass-produced figure.
I've seen a resin model (by MERSA) that has the figure curved in a v-shape (with her back arched), but the center of gravity is still in the middle or so; the base is also heavy and gives a lot of support. Alter's looks like Nadie is throwing herself sideways (with some arching of her back) while shooting, which is very nice, but the weight doesn't look like it's mainly over her left leg. Maybe there's more mass added to her left leg or the peg is longer than usual? The peg has a slight bent to it, and from the bottom-rightmost image, looks like it could be longer. It's certainly a very nice-looking figure, though.
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2007-09-21, 04:13 | Link #711 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Age: 48
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Last update before I take final pictures. Today I finished up all the small detail painting on the leg piece and the head. I painted the eyes. I start with a mechanical pencil and draw in the eyes. Once I'm satisfied with the eyes, I trace over that with a rapidograph technical pen.
Once that dries, I can apply the enamel paints for the eye color. I did a couple of shades of green for different highlights. I then used the mechanical pencil to draw in the eyebrows. Most kits have the eye brows molded in, but this one didn't so I had to draw them in. After drawing them, I used the final hair tone to paint in the eyebrows. Once this all dried, I was able to dab on a little future floor polish for a final gloss clear coat over the eyes, giving them a wet look to them. Once everything dries, I'll put her together and take some final pictures.
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2007-09-21, 15:52 | Link #713 |
Bloody Hell...
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*whistles* Very nicely done. I admire the time and dedication you put into this. Good job! ^^
Makes me want to try one of these kits, but I'm scared of screwing up something so detailed and expensive, or at least failing to do it justice. Must find a way to practice first. @_@ |
2007-09-22, 13:14 | Link #714 | |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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2007-09-22, 13:28 | Link #715 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: China
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True; I have a "Lacus Clyne" RAH DX figure (Sample picture from Yahoo Japan), and even though it's nowhere near that degree, they still put a supporting rod on its right leg. One main difference, though, is that for the RAH DX figure, its left leg is snapped into place with a triangular piece of plastic into the foot only; the Alter figure is supported with a steel(?) rod in the right foot/leg. If the rod is long enough (and the plastic strong enough also, I guess), it might be doable. I'll still want to put a second rod on the left side just in case, though. It's too nice a figure to have it bent or ruined if the rod or leg gives way.
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2007-09-23, 02:07 | Link #716 | |
♪♫ Maya Iincho ♩♬
Artist
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Just got these at the Convention today. Gin-iro no Olynssis Tea PVC Figure - her boots are actually sky blue and not light blue or white like the Stock Photo looks like. The only weird thing about his PVC was her pose, not many would even pose like that, which each arms over each other like that. Da Capo II: Otome Asakura 1/8 Scale PVC Statue It looks better in person, cause I would've never bought it just looking at the stock photos. GameraBaenre - I'm not good enough to ever do one of those ^_^. Me and my cousin bought one, but have yet to finish painting her >.< (ughhh, it's just as aggravating as extracting images in photoshop and doing those 3D puzzle for the Sears Tower, which I can only finish the base and the top ^_^) ps: GameraBaenre - Have you tried to make your own resin Figure or do you only do premade resins only?
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2007-09-25, 10:16 | Link #717 |
Gone for Good
Join Date: Apr 2004
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Hi guys. The other day I saw some images of some Suzumiya Haruhi and Nagato Yuki figurines. Actually, they're more like dolls, with jointed limbs and real fabric clothing. I'm wondering what was the name of the manufacturer, does anyone have a clue?
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2007-09-25, 13:54 | Link #718 | ||
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Age: 48
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2007-09-25, 16:23 | Link #719 | |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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I got my first large figures yesterday: Alter's Ignis, Griffon's Kanu Unchou with huge spear, and the Clayz Ryomou Shimei. I hope it was only a coincidence, but shortly after opening them, I started to feel very slightly unwell. I could smell paint (or something else) from them; not strongly, but still apparent. *lead/toxic fumes paranoia ensues* |
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