2010-04-19, 13:35 | Link #17262 |
Gamyūsa
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Montreal
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has anyone used milliput (silver grey)? i plan to fill in the holes in the SD gunner zaku sheild (unserside). atm ive tried palying around with the stuuf without applying it to a model as a test. its rather sticky and leaves marks on hands/gloves after mixing, when is the best time to mold it?
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2010-04-19, 14:11 | Link #17263 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Age: 48
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With miliput putty, just mix it, apply it where you want, then let it set up over night or however long it takes to cure. Then sand it smooth, or carve it with a hobby knife. I recommend sanding over carving, but if you are sculpting, you may want to carve it.
You can also shape and mold it before it cures to get the desired shape, then let it set up. You still need to sand it to smooth it out and do the final shaping.
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2010-04-19, 16:04 | Link #17264 | |
Gamyūsa
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Montreal
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i just need to let the putty cure, sand and paint it to the correct colour. if anyone is using humbrol and wants to matt a gloss color, use the humbrol matt cote (28ML glass jar) if you dont want a spray can. matt varnish is more like yellow satin varnish. well mixed matt cote does a nice job and dries fast as long as you mix all the white silica. you can adjust the silica proportions by putting aside the top layer of liquid to matt it more. |
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2010-04-20, 02:40 | Link #17267 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Age: 48
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Mr Super clear also comes in bottle form which is how i get it and I just thin it appropriately and spray it over my kits to get the desired finish. For example, I just finished this kit today. Well, all the clear coats have dried and I have a mix of clear gloss and clear flat on the different colors: Close up: Full size: More pictures and information about this project build is here: http://gamerabaenre.com/?p=1029
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2010-04-20, 07:59 | Link #17269 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Alberta, Canada
Age: 44
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2010-04-20, 09:20 | Link #17271 |
Member
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Ello guys, just sharing how to paint a simple mountain diorama for your Gundam kits...Painting a mountain diorama
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2010-04-20, 10:21 | Link #17272 |
Gamyūsa
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Montreal
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i have a few questions on matt finishes. have any of you tried matt coat products that dont come in spray cans? i dont mind either that much but the can fumes do get to me once in a while. ive used super clear flat on my garrazzo and i also have tamiya flat clear (yet to try flat clear). as you people have metioned before the sprays need to be 6-8 inches away so it wont be too much to frost the paint. is it all like this for any paint you apply to a kit? i know different paint brands often have their own products to dull a finish off. humbrol has matt varnish 49 (absolute inneffective) and matt cote (rather good). the matt coat can have quite a good coat and it wont frost under most conditions. im sure that it could frost if theres too much silica in proportion to the other liquid. Are all the dulling agents made by the same company effective even if you put a consistent thin layer on? ie can tamiya flat still frost a tamiya paint if you spray too close.
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2010-04-20, 12:48 | Link #17273 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Age: 48
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I do not use spray cans. I use clear (flat, semi gloss, and gloss) sprayed through my airbrush. If you cannot find the bottle form of your favorite clear, you can always decant the stuff from spray cans to use in the airbrush: http://gamerabaenre.com/decanting.htm Since you have so much more control with the airbrush, you can spray closer and not worry about blasting the part with too much flat that will frost up the kit. Hope this makes sense.
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2010-04-20, 13:09 | Link #17274 | |
Gamyūsa
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Montreal
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ive tried to painting over the putty on the SD zaku undersude of the sheild. the putty wasnt 100 smooth and the paint is cracked after drying. ive repainted over it hoping it'll fill in the gaps. it still shows the cracks, is there any tips to fix this? so far i can only keep putting paint to fill in the gaps and maybe sanding down the paint. |
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2010-04-20, 16:51 | Link #17275 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Age: 48
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If the paint cracks, it's best to sand it smooth and just repaint it. You'll end up doing more work and piling on more paint if you keep trying to fill it.
Decanting doesn't take long. You just need to make sure you degas the paint, or it'll explode on you as it's fairly volatile right out of the can. It the degassing process that may take long or not long depending on your method of degassing.
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2010-04-20, 17:20 | Link #17276 | |
Gamyūsa
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Montreal
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2010-04-20, 20:20 | Link #17277 |
Mecha Pilot
Join Date: Apr 2003
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Listing of upcoming Model Graphix spill the beans on the next MG...
http://www.modelkasten.com/magazine/mg/187470307.html 082 マスターグレード フルアーマーガンダム(バンダイ 1/100) -> MG Full Armor Gundam We don't know which design yet... VS |
2010-04-20, 23:12 | Link #17278 |
Gamyūsa
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Montreal
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my SD lunamaria zaku is completed. im just waiting for the paint to dry b4 the final touch ups. thank you very muchgamerabaenre for the helpful tips on handling putty.i managed to get the underside of the shield to look much better. it was both sanding down the putty and sanding the paint itself. it still has some imperfections but no noticeable paint cracks like before.
Last edited by X207; 2010-04-20 at 23:44. |
Tags |
gundam, gunpla, model kit, toy |
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