Visiting Japan

[WanderingKnight]

I'm already planning my next visit to Japan--my plan is to do the Tokaido route from Tokyo to Kyoto on bicycle with a tent or something in case I can't find any lodging on the way. Central Honshu was the part I liked the most so it's a good chance to see more of its countryside. I could also pack the 53 paintings of the Tokaido and try to take pictures that match each one or something, heh.

[Guardian Enzo]

Arrived today. As happened the first time, while I was knackered from the 10-hour flight, as soon as was on the Narex speeding into Tokyo I had a huge grin on my face at the sheer absurdity of being here. Flight from SFO pulled up on time to the minute - at the gate, mind you - and customs/immigration took all of 15 minutes. I was on the 3:45 train - this is an amazingly efficient country.

Damn, it felt good to get back on the Yamanote - those masses of people, the wonderful station jingles... Checked in to my hotel in Bukuro and went slack-jawed at all the familiar landmarks I wouldn't have recognized before Durarara. Started my quest of eating my way through every ramen joint in Bukuro at Komen. Tonkotsu broth was superb, but the highlight may have been the strange custard with some kind of maple dipping sauce. Damn, it was tasty. Tomorrow, Sanja Matsuri and other things...

[Guardian Enzo]

First full day. Have I mentioned I love this place? Started at Tsukiji Market, figuring its one of those places I was going to have to hit sooner or later - and I was right. It's a different look at Tokyo, at least. Followed that with a walk to Ginza, which I also missed the first trip. Finally got to experience the shockingly ritualistic opening of a "Depatto" (Miyokichi). That place has an amazing food bazaar, even by the standards here.

Highlight of day 2 (or 1, really) was Asakusa and Sanja Matsuri. There wasn't much happening at first, and I was wondering if I'd somehow managed to lose the biggest party in Tokyo. Finally, the major Friday event - the procession of the small shrines - began all the way back out near the JR station. I watched a couple of them go by, got some amazing footage, and slipped into the procession and followed them all the way to Asakusa Shrine with a tight-packed crowd of locals. One of the coolest experiences I've had.

After a quick side trip to check out the Arakawa Tram (didn't go under any bridges that I saw) - the last true "ding-ding" streetcar in Edo - ended up back in Ikebukuro. Still no headless riders, but checked out Otome Street (not much to it, really) and Sunshine City before continuing ramen pilgrimage at Santouka. I've had their famous shio with special pork at their San Jose branch, where they claim to fly the broth into the US in giant frozen blocks, so I had to compare. And you know, I believe it - the soup in California is almost as good. Finally, saw my first film at a Japanese cinema - Bungaku Shojo (starring our very own Kitamura Kou, Miyu-Miyu). It's I.G., and they're not capable of anything less than gorgeous animation, but as I only know the source material from the Wiki I confess I was somewhat less than able to follow the story beyond the basics. I get about 1 of 4 words, but I got the point - and while it isn't one of I.G.'s major achievements, it's good. Also saw the preview for "Welcome to the Space Show", which looks excellent.

Off to bed - more tomorrow...

[Guardian Enzo]

Yesterday I touched my first Japanese snow… But we’ll get back to that.

Spoiler for Long!:

Picking up where I left off – Saturday I went to Mitake-san. It’s not the tallest mountain in the world – 900 meters or so – but it was quite stunning, especially the spectacular shrine at the top. Japanese people love to climb things, and it was amazing how many obaa-sans I saw struggling up those damn steps. And blissfully, almost no other non-Japanese tourists. I did make the mistake of climbing down to view a waterfall, which was at the bottom of about 700 steps. That was a brutal return trip.

Afterwards, I finally got to try something I’ve been kicking myself for missing last time – a cat café. In the 15 months since I was here these places have really taken off – there are about 7-8, and I went to Nekoromi in Ikebukuro, near Sunshine City. It was a blast, but TBH the people may have been more fun to watch than the cats. The latter are, frankly, pretty blasé about the whole experience – they’re clearly used to people fawning over them and now view them with feline detachment. Mind you, for a deprived cat person it’s immensely therapeutic to pet and watch a dozen felines for an hour, even if most of them were asleep. The interesting mix of customers were trying gamely to get a few of the friskier furballs to get rowdy, but without too much success.

Akiba, for the first time this trip. You know, I think I just have to admit to myself that the anime and manga of primary interest to me are not of interest to the larger otaku community – there’s not much Cross Game or Moribito swag out there, but it’s all K-on and Hetalia all the time, if that’s your bag. I could spend two hours happily grazing at Toranoana if my hair were on fire, don’t get me wrong, especially the fifth floor – but it does frustrate me not to be able to find a good selection of merchandise (shirts, hats, etc) anywhere. Is there a great store somewhere in Tokyo for non-cosplay otake wear? I’ll try Nakano Broadway when I get back to Tokyo in a week.

Day three was a blast. Started out with Sanja Matsuri in full swing at 6 AM on Sunday – the floats were being paraded (“Busa! Busa!”) and thousands were out participating. Shinto is a wonderful and blissfully fascinating enigma for me – I understand almost none of what I see but can’t look away. There’s a raw and slightly dangerous feeling power to those rituals and shrines that really draws me in. After matsuri, it was onsen episode number one. I took the “Himiko”, the bay ferry designed by the legendary manga artist Leiji Matsumoto (Galaxy Express 999, Space Battleship Yamato) up the Sumida to Odaiba and had a delightful four hours at Oedo Onsen. Yes, it’s still hokey (but on sale for 2100 yen) but I enjoy it – it’s user-friendly, the facilities are superb, and I feel so damn good afterwards.

Capped off the day with another first for me, a Japan League game. The Tokyo Yakult Swallows are terrible, but it was a great game - they lost 6-5 to Fukuoka Soft Bank Hawks in 11 innings. Sat in the bleachers with the real fans, and I tell you – all that singing and chanting and noisemaking really makes the in-person experience (I’ve been to 100+ major league games) much more fun. Terrible as they are the Swallows have passionate fans, and so do the Hawks – and they stayed right to the end.

Yesterday, if was off to Matsumoto (a coincidence, Leiji) to see Matsumoto-jo. With Himeji under wraps for 3-4 years, this may be the best castle in Japan, and she’s a beaut. Got a fun and slightly confusing tour from an elderly volunteer guide named Sho-san. Even found a little Animate store in downtown Matsumoto, surprisingly. After that, boarded a bus for Hirayu Onsen, way up in the Japan Alps. Perhaps someone can explain to me how Hirayu-no-Mori can offer private room, myriad indoor and outdoor baths, sauna, private onsen baths (no extra charge) and a full kaiseki dinner for 7000 yen? I can’t figure it out but I ain’t complaining – it always make me laugh to hear folks complain about how expensive Japan is. A tourist can live wonderfully hear much cheaper than in Europe or the States if they’re smart and willing to go local. My only complaint is that, while they have the love tester, there’s no ping-pong!

So since my arrival at Hirayu, my day was:

- Get acclimated, tour the grounds
- Bathe in the private onsen
- Bathe in the public baths, drink milk and lounge in my yukata for an hour, before wearing it to the dining room for kaiseki
- Say “Konbanwa” to about a thousand Japanese in yukata. Folks sure are in a good mood at the hot springs.
- Take a twilight walk through the woods to Hirayu Waterfall, a real stunner. There’s something to be said for walking in the woods at night – spooky, but great atmosphere.
- Slip back into the baths and luxuriate under a cloudless sky as the air temp dropped from a steamy 25 Celsius to a chilly mountain night, watching the steam rise.
- Eat an ice cream in my room and watch anime
- Don my happi coat (first time for me with the happi) and stroll under the stars before heading to bed, listening to the rushing of the mountain river outside my window.

I tells ya, there are worse ways to spend the day than that. And oh yes, they still have snow up here in places. Hirayu Onsen is a beautiful, beautiful place.

Today, finished up at Hirayu with one last onsen session, then boarded the bus for Takayama. Man, what a beautiful place - they call it "Little Kyoto" and I can see why. Handsome old merchants' quarter, architecture, temples... But again, it was the shrines in the hills East of town that impressed me most. There's just something about a shrine hidden in the woods, at the top of a long flight if stone steps. And those steps! Shinto is a religion that really makes you earn it.

Ironically, even after 4 days in Tokyo the most crowded train I've ridden was the local from Takayama to Kanazawa. What a sardine can - and sounded like it was running on an old lawnmower engine. Got there on time to the minute anyway, of course - even the bus to Hirayu was to the minute. How the hell do they do that with a long-distance bus? Didn't have time to see Kanazawa tonight, but the Dormy Hotel has won me over. In addition to a free rooftop spa and wifi, they offer free ramen at 2130! As well, there's a huge benefit for me - free washer/dryers and detergent. And the waiting room has manga! All for $57 a night.

And here’s something I’ve observed, on my first trip too but really noticed it this time – and it runs counter to stereotype. Japanese men are very solicitous and affectionate towards their children, sons just as much as daughters. It’s striking how many times you see dads with their kids and no mom in sight, and the dads are patient, attentive and openly affectionate – and it contrasts with what I’ve sometimes seen in other countries, where that kind of thing appears to be the exception rather than the norm.

[Qikz]

Your trip sounds fantastic, really can't wait to go next year. <3

[Guardian Enzo]

I love this country so much, I tell you. I even love the stuff that drives you nuts about it!

[WanderingKnight]

the last true "ding-ding" streetcar in Edo

You know, I burst out laughing really bad when I was talking about Nagasaki with a guy from that city but who was visiting Sapporo, and I mentioned the trams in pseudo-English (since I didn't know what the name was, I just said "street car" in my best Engrish) and he called them "chin-chin densha". He then explained to me why it was like that and I understood it, but still... the first thing that came to my mind was a huge penis riding on rails...

Congrats for being there! Not a month has passed since I've returned from there but I'm fucking jealous, damn.

[Guardian Enzo]

Rainy, rainy day in Kanazawa. It's a shame, but my first one of the trip so I won't complain. It would have been nice to have the sun peek out and shine off the roof tiles for a few minutes, but c'est la vie. It's a beautiful city, even in the rain. No life-changing moments, but a couple more firsts for me. I saw my first working geisha (well, she seemed in a hurry) and - a bigger thrill for me - my first miko. There she was, in white and vermilion, sweeping the shrine... I about fainted on the spot. I have a major thing for shrine maidens.

One more note - Shizuo and Izaya are officially a couple. Doujinshi writers sure work fast, but there was several in the Kanazawa Animate shop.

[Qikz]

There she was, in white and vermilion, sweeping the shrine... I about fainted on the spot. I have a major thing for shrine maidens.

Why do I have this strange vision of you now camping outside by the shrine waiting to catch another glimpse?

Sounds like you're have a really good time. I should be going for a month if all goes to plan, I should hopefully get alot of stuff done in a month atleast anyway. ^_^

[Guardian Enzo]

Originally Posted by Qikz

Why do I have this strange vision of you now camping outside by the shrine waiting to catch another glimpse?

Sounds like you're have a really good time. I should be going for a month if all goes to plan, I should hopefully get alot of stuff done in a month atleast anyway. ^_^

Greetings from Ekoin Temple in Koya-san, where they have internet and the priest takes visa. Short post - I have a long Kyoto recap coming tomorrow when I get back to Tokyo and can surf on my laptop. I have shyojin-ryori served in 20 minutes and the monks get upset if you`re not in the room on time.

I glimpsed several more miko in Kyoto (swoon) but they were selling charms behind a window. Not quite the same...

[Arbitres]

I have to clear my doubts. Enzo... Do all the monks have red dots on their foreheads, and are they all bald/shaved head?

Also... Do well to greet the miko and geisha appropriately. You never know what happens in Japan~

... ... Sorry for the stereotypes but it's been something I've been wondering. The best way to rid yourself of a stereotype is by asking someone that is experiencing/experienced differently.

...Have you gone to a doujinshi store yet?... Just curious. No reason.

[Guardian Enzo]

Many monks have shaved heads, but I haven`t seen any red dots. Are you thinking of Hindus with the third eye? I`ve been to several doujin shops, and plan to hit a few more when I`m back in Tokyo.

Tonight, finished the evening in Koyasan with a walk to visit Kobo Daishi, along with a monk from the temple. Okonouin after dark, with those lanterns... Wow. 200K graves or more, including Oda Nobunaga, Hideyoshi, Tokugawa Ieyasu. Very spooky and beautiful amongst all the 800 year-old cedars, jizu statues and moss-covered gravesites. Sort of the Buddhist equivalent of Fushimi Inari - it`s hard not to feel something when you`re there, though quite different from a shrine.

Let me just say, as well, that the kaiseki at the temple is fantastic. I was skeptical, frankly, with no meat, onion or garlic - but delicious.

[Guardian Enzo]

So, Kyoto, typed two days ago.

Spoiler for Long, again:

Kyoto is a bit of a maddening city. What I mean is that everything I see reminds me of everything I don't have time to see. I feel like I need 7-10 days here, at minimum, just to start making a dent - and that's not even discussing Nara. Or Uji. Yet - would you get desensitized to all those amazing temples and shrines after a week? Hard to say.

I've had two days here (as I type this) and leave for Koya-san in the AM. I made a conscious effort to see some different things this time - which means the Western part of town (not that I got to a fraction of that) for starters. Kinkajuji - the Golden Pavillion, which I felt I had to see. And it is an amazing sight, but so many people! Massive crowds of schoolkids, obaa-sans, German tourists... Ginkajuji was the same way. I know they're tourist traps but they're legitimate marvels and national treasures. Butn soooo many people!

Also saw Samogamo Shrine (Tatami Galaxy) yesterday. No fireworks or student films, but a neat place. I was a bit lost, and an old man who was jogging gave me directions. Then (though he would never admit it) changed his route to make sure I got there, and his pace to make sure he kept me in sight. And it was about a mile.

Today, I spent half the day in Nara. I know it's a pittance, but I didn't see it at all last time and I felt I had to at least give it a few hours. Again, just stunned by the crowds - it does change the way you view these marvels. I do appreciate, though, how much the Japanese treasure their history and how much they force their young to experience it. The deer were fun, if a bit freaky to see. Got the JR sightseeing map (with the Kintetsu station crosed out!) and headed for Todai-ji first. Largest wooden building in the world is there - the Daibutsu Hall - and it's a sight and a half. Great, atmospheric temple compound. They talk about a different feel to the Nara compounds, and they're right - older, more serene, profound in their enormity. Another interesting thing was happening in Nara that hasn't happened to me elsewhere - several (and I do mean several) times, young kids came up and greeted me. Always boys, always 11 or 12 I'd guess - a friendly "Hello" with an outreached hand. Sometimes "Where are you from?" I know they want to practice English, but I see gajillions of schoolkids everywhere and this never happens - why only in Nara, I wonder? I love the confusion on their little faces when I answer them in Japanese.

Back to Kyoto, but a stop at Inari. I said last year that Kiyomizudera might be the coolest place on Earth, but Fushimi Inari is right up there. Sugoi, to the max - what a place. If you have any spiritualism in you at all, it's hard not to feel something in places like that. They say 10,000 torii and while I did't count, it might be more. The major shrines at the base, of course, but countless meandering paths to more scattered all the way up the mountain. And Foxes everywhere, waiting for offerings. I've spent a fair amount on shrine offerings this trip, but I wonder how one decides which shrines to make offerings at and which not to. After Inari, I went back for a side-by-side comparison with Kiyomizu - with a quick stop at Kobo Daishi's overlooked esoteric temple To-ji. South of the station and thus often ignored, they have their massive flea market on the 21st so I checked it out. A mess of people selling everywhere, and monks scattered among them asking for alms. One imagines it might have been the same 400 years ago. And yes, Kiyomizu is still sugoi - the only place I repeat visited this trip to Kyoto, not counting the incredibly atmospheric streets and lanes of Higashiyama.

There really is something to Kyoto, something different to everywhere else. If I had to choose an inadquate word to try and express it, i think it would be an aesthetic. You walk around Higashiyama and it looks as if every stone, every tree, every blade of grass was placed there to haunt you with their beauty. I might even say art for art's sake - there's a sense of that here, that beauty is enough of an end in itself that it doesn't need to justify itself any other way. Yes, it's a modern city with traffic and industry, etc. - but walk the hills East of the city, among the temples and shrines and parks, and deny it - I dare you. This is a place that celebrates living and appreciating life at the highest level.

Speaking of which, just what the heck is blooming in forests all over Central Japan right now? I smell it everywhere, some sort of amazing blossom I don't see - that, combined with the smell of incense and cedar has imprinted on my psyche. And that's a good thing.

So obviously, Koyasan came after Kyoto. This morning woke at 6 for the prayer service, at which the fat priest finally made an appearance. Afterward, trekked through the rain to a side temple for the fire ceremony, which was an experience. Taiko, gong, all of it. It seems odd to say, but it felt odd that the temple was such a nice play to stay - complete with web and credit cards. There's no doubt that this is a commercial operation. Still - you're still staying at a temple with 1200 years of history and that has its charms. Mostly, the staff seemed to be giggly teenaged monks-in-training, with a few older monks occasionally present. It was a unique experience, and Koyasan a unique place. Certainly the holiest place in Japan if you're a Buddhist, and it feels like it.

Back to Tokyo on the Shinkansen, enjoyed my first ekiben of the trip. I was beat - all told, I've been on 11 separate lines on transit today including the Koyasan bus and cable car - but I wanted to check out Nakano Broadway. It's pretty cool - much different vibe than Akiba, more like a permanent convention. More families, young kids... Didn't find anything really great - doesn't anyone sell Mitsuru Adachi paraphernalia in Tokyo? About the most novel was a small series of Natsume Youjinchuu items - including Nyanko-sensei teacups and manju buns. I may pick up the teacups before I go back. And again, Shizuo/Izaya doujins are everywhere. Hottest pairing in otomen-land right now...

[Guardian Enzo]

Nearing the end - tomorrow the last full day. What a drag its going to be, going back to a job and boss that I hate. I think I love this place so much because being here is really like being a kid again. If you're old enough to have high school well in the rear-view mirror you know what I mean - the cynicism, the predictability of everyday life. Here, everything that happens is a surprise, and that's a rare and exciting thing - Japan feels like the adult world did when I was a kid. Exciting, weird, a little scary, always just beyond understanding. I'd love to move here and have a chance to discover it over time.

Today was a fun day. Started out frustrated and depressed - just about every tourist attraction is closed on Monday in this town. Finally settled on something I'd stumbled upon during a web search - Jindaiji. It's out in Chofu, a bedroom suburb 10 miles or so West of downtown on the Keio Line (a first for me on that line). A superb temple - second oldest in Tokyo, with gorgeous landscapes and well-preserved buildings. Had lunch at a fantastically atmospheric soba place just outside the walls which looked like it had been there as long as the temple. Soba was delicious - turns out its a local specialty, which I hadn't even known. After that, went to the local onsen, hidden away on a residential street. Hell, there's a great-looking botanic garden that would have been a fine stop too, any other day of the week. And none of this was in any, and I do mean any, guide book I found. That's why I love Tokyo.

I did make a return visit to Akiba tonight, and picked up a Nyanko-sensei plushie. Turns out they also have Nyanko-sensei socks, though I passed, and a bunch of other Natsume stuff. Glad to see that. I also stumbled upon a little cache of Oofuri at Animate - Nishiura HS socks (socks are big, I guess), etc. They also had several Baka-Test shirts, including my favorite, "Question 1 - Gender" with that pic of Hideyoshi about to drop trou. Rather witty, that one. Very tempted by the high-quality Simon Gurren-Lagann logo jacket at Cospa, but 10000 yen is too much. I never even knew to check Radio Kaiten or White Canvas, so I guess I have to go back tomorrow...

[Guardian Enzo]

Interesting trivia - Japanese convenience stores sell underpants, but not ziploc bags. I wonder if there's any deeper social meaning there.

Last day - I fly out late evening tomorrow, but I don't really count it. Went out to Kawagoe this AM, figuring it would be a mellow way to spend the last day. Then, off to Suginami Animation Museum. That was fun - a free museum really trying hard, with a helpful staff doing their best to speak English. An extraordinarily genki troop of junior high kids on a tour came in just after I got there, and pretty much took over the place.

GeGeGe no Kitaro was everywhere this week. Big exhibition at the museum, and it was all over Chofu yesterday - the author lives there. He's a huge FC Tokyo fan, apparently, and Kitaro is on all the lamposts promoting the team. If they made that as a jersey, it would be a great souvenir. I confess to never having seen an episode or a movie, but I know it's one of those seminal anime properties that's just part of the culture here. It's been remade at least once every decade since the 60's.

Capped off my evening with a visit to Nekorobi, the cat cafe I'd meant to go to last week. It's just across from Sunshine City. Whatever the reason, the cats were far more energetic than at the first one. A dozen felines, all awake and playful. These were clearly healthy, energetic and well-cared for cats - I was impressed. Drinks and snacks were free at this one, to - 1000 for an hour. I think it was worth it - I found the feline frolics soothing to the soul (and I need it right now).

I'll wrap with closing thoughts after I get home, but what a trip. I think I want to take a huge pay cut and get a job teaching English here.

[Mystique]

Originally Posted by Guardian Enzo

I'll wrap with closing thoughts after I get home, but what a trip. I think I want to take a huge pay cut and get a job teaching English here.

I've said this a million times before, but a holiday is a holiday, you'll have one of the most magical and amazing times of your life here.
Living here is another entire ballgame all together, so let the fairydust settle for a few months before you decide

Seems you've been enjoying more of Tokyo and surrounding areas that I even knew about, nice reports

[Guardian Enzo]

Well, this is my second time here and I do have an ex-pat friend who has been living here for 14 years. He's given me some unvarnished input about the good, the bad and the ugly of living in Japan generally and Tokyo specifically (he's moved a few times). I think my eyes are pretty open, but the bottom line for me is, this is a good time to be bold - I don't like my job, don't have family commitments holding me back, and generally feel like a change is in order. As I said earlier, I love the aspect of having so much that's new to me here - starting with basics like the language. It does make me feel young, and that's a good thing.

We'll see. I'd probably sleep for about 48 hours when I got back if given the choice, but I'll have so much work piled up that'll be impossible. Got about 5 hours left to enjoy Tokyo before I hop the train to Narita.

[Guardian Enzo]

Well, I'm back... And jet lagged. Always seems to worse flying East, and maybe having the down vibe of coming home rather than the adrenaline of arrival too.

Now then, the last day was pretty low key - Kanda Myojin and Ueno Park. My back held up but my feet are killing me - blisters everywhere. I thought my running shoes were the right choice, but clearly not. I'd guess I was doing 5-10 miles a day so maybe the shoes wouldn't even have mattered.

I had an unbelievable time - so many wonderful interactions with folks on the trains, the temple, etc. So many beautiful places and near-religious experiences. The varied and relaxing experiences at the onsen - although the glowing brown water (one of the pools was in a cave, so I'm sure) at Jindaiji was a bit frightening at first. I dropped a considerable amount of coin at shrines all over the country. I suppose the one disappointment was the otaku side - I just didn't see much in Akiba or Nakano Broadway that set me on fire. Picked up a few doujins and the Nyanko plushie, and that's about it. As I mentioned a few days ago, I guess I just have to accept that my interests don't really overlap with popular tastes when it comes to anime and manga.

Now I'm back, and the grind begins again. Sigh.

[Qikz]

Glad you enjoyed yourself, sounds like you had a wonderful trip. Thanks for keeping this thread informed, was a good read. :>

[Guardian Enzo]

If anyone is interested, here's a selection of the pics and vids I took in Japan. Feedback is, of course, welcome.

http://picasaweb.google.com/miller.matthew85/Japan2010#