Gundam Models Discussion Thread

[firefox]

Originally Posted by StrikeFreedomV2

Relic?! Even though its old, it's a classic design and still influences newer designs. like Delta Plus. Also, look at the Zaku's and the RX-78-2. These are OLDER than the HS, but People still buy them.

I don't get that either, but before this sentence is written theywill probably annouce a MG RX-78 3.0...

[Chiu_fan]

Originally Posted by MakubeX2

http://www.gundamer.com/01/g20_11_10_12_deltaplus.html

3. There's are to be more Unicorn MG releases.

Please do the Jesta, Stark Jegan and ECOAS Jegan in MG form!

[maknaedik]

MG is not for everyone because of two possible reasons, one is space and the biggest factor I can think of is price.

HGs are undoubtedly cheaper and spacesaver, though I can't figure out that much why geara zulu's price range is always above 2000yen, which is irrelevant of course. With the current evolution of current HGs, having semi inner frame and articulation can compare or even defeat older MGs, I think it's going a good job.

[duotiga]

Originally Posted by maknaedik

MG is not for everyone because of two possible reasons, one is space and the biggest factor I can think of is price.

HGs are undoubtedly cheaper and spacesaver, though I can't figure out that much why geara zulu's price range is always above 2000yen, which is irrelevant of course. With the current evolution of current HGs, having semi inner frame and articulation can compare or even defeat older MGs, I think it's going a good job.

MG reasoning for space specifically referring to the box is it?
Price is also depends on the number of parts for kits

Geara Zulu price is above 2000yen is because of the number of parts for HG & is almost to the scale of 1/100 (UC unicorn MS are big aka Nu Gundam size)

I say current HG kits is a very much improved compared to the previous HG line

[casval cehack]

Originally Posted by maknaedik

MG is not for everyone because of two possible reasons, one is space and the biggest factor I can think of is price.

HGs are undoubtedly cheaper and spacesaver, though I can't figure out that much why geara zulu's price range is always above 2000yen, which is irrelevant of course. With the current evolution of current HGs, having semi inner frame and articulation can compare or even defeat older MGs, I think it's going a good job.

Another reason: Choice. MG gunpla selection are a quite lacking. Not everyone wants the lead Gundam or the corresponding enemy boss suit.

I really thought the future of Gunpla lies in the 1/144 scale, with the introduction of the RG that blurred the line (in detail and price) between HG and MG and currently airing Gundam anime that targets the younger audience (with younger HG only budgets).

[duotiga]

unofficially ...they are implying that (trying) to cut the production cost down to mainly MG/RG & 1/144 scale

[MakubeX2]

To clarify on point 2 in regards to the future of Gunpla. It's a personal opinion of the designer, he is not satisfied with how HGs lacks mechanical details and are not loyal to their original concept. If he got his way, all Gunpla releases should be MG-only and that is not realistic from a business point of view.

And besides, remember, a representative of Bandai had mentioned plans to cut down on MG releases to focus on HGs in an earlier interview.

[maknaedik]

Originally Posted by duotiga

MG reasoning for space specifically referring to the box is it?
Price is also depends on the number of parts for kits

Geara Zulu price is above 2000yen is because of the number of parts for HG & is almost to the scale of 1/100 (UC unicorn MS are big aka Nu Gundam size)

I say current HG kits is a very much improved compared to the previous HG line

Well, box is one. But the model is pretty big as well.

Yes, I kinda figured that it's the size. unicorn kits are BIG (don't get hurt Loto, you're cute)

@casval cehack

Yes, choices. That's many people wanted Bandai to make their favorite 1/144 kit into MG

[00Q]

Hello i'm pretty new to gunpla and just have a few questions regarding painting. Any answers are muchly appreciated. I'm building and painting a 1/144 HG 00 Quanta with the full saber if anyone is curious.

1. If i use enamel straight from the pot will it cause paint marks?
2. What do you use to thin enamel?
3. Say i was going to paint 3 frames out of 5 (Blue, Grey and White) and apply a topcoat how would the painted sections look compared to the unpainted sections (red and yellow)?
4. When applying a topcoat do you need to mask clear sections? If you fail to what happens?
5. Is a primer required before painting?
6. Is spraying preferred over hand painting?

And yes i'm aware i sound like a noob. I have looked up quite a few guides and done quite a bit of research but most answers have left to more questions =/.

Also just curious but has there been any announcements regarding future 00 suit releases? I'm really hoping the Raphael Gundam gets a proper seravee.

[Butagami]

Hey guys, I got a question.

I've been meaning to buy a good set of plastic nippers, but there isn't a shop nearby that has them. Does anyone know a good alternative? Can I just use the same things you use for wires? I really want to make something out of these kits, so nubmarks are definitely a nono.

[00Q]

Originally Posted by Butagami

Hey guys, I got a question.

I've been meaning to buy a good set of plastic nippers, but there isn't a shop nearby that has them. Does anyone know a good alternative? Can I just use the same things you use for wires? I really want to make something out of these kits, so nubmarks are definitely a nono.

I use the clippers from the games workshop. They do the job quite well but there is probably better out there.

[Appel]

Originally Posted by Sworra

Great Job Appel, I'm surprised that the printer didn't leave chip marks through out the image. what printer did you use?

i am using an epson SX110 inkjet printer :P i set it to highest photo quality and the paper to photo paper and then the results are VERY nice! it could be better since im using thirdparty ink cartriges (i had some real issues with getting the green just right! i had to print some samples in multiples shades of green before i printed the decals) but all in all i think this did turn out pretty nicely^^
if you can set your printer to a high photo quality then id definitely give this a try! its fun, its an easy way to customize your models even further besides painting it and it isnt even all that expensive. i paid 3 bucks for one sheet of clear decal paper and 8 bucks for mr. metal primer as a fixer for the ink (regular top coart works here, too though! they simply recommened that primer for this particular decal paper^^)

Originally Posted by MakubeX2

http://www.gundamer.com/01/g20_11_10_12_deltaplus.html

Interview with Model developer Hirofumi Kishiyama of Bandai.

Some important points :-

1. Plans are already in place for a MG Delta Gundam and Hyashiki 2.0. But it will not be undertaken for another 1 to 2 years.

2. The futures of Gunpla had to go towards releasing MGs as HGs are unable to potray details shown in MGs.

3. There's are to be more Unicorn MG releases.

Originally Posted by Chiu_fan

Please do the Jesta, Stark Jegan and ECOAS Jegan in MG form!

thats very interesting news. in a different forum i have heard that #1 (which is the same info from a previous interview) was translated in a wrong way and that both models wont be released at all. but since he gave a rather specific timeframe in this case its probably true afterall, which is great news for me!^^

#2 makes sense from a designer's point of view. he wants to make an awesome model and HGs just arent as detailed as MG models. he probably also makes a lot more money with designing a MG ;D i bet if the designers alone were in charge of bandai they would only release PG models :P

#3 is REALLY good news for me^^ it was rather obvious that we would get more MGs but this also means that we will get more than the FA unicorn and the banshee. a jesta or maybe even an ecoas jegan would be AMAZING news! :O

[Exia_00]

Originally Posted by 00Q

Hello i'm pretty new to gunpla and just have a few questions regarding painting. Any answers are muchly appreciated. I'm building and painting a 1/144 HG 00 Quanta with the full saber if anyone is curious.

1. If i use enamel straight from the pot will it cause paint marks?
2. What do you use to thin enamel?
3. Say i was going to paint 3 frames out of 5 (Blue, Grey and White) and apply a topcoat how would the painted sections look compared to the unpainted sections (red and yellow)?
4. When applying a topcoat do you need to mask clear sections? If you fail to what happens?
5. Is a primer required before painting?
6. Is spraying preferred over hand painting?

And yes i'm aware i sound like a noob. I have looked up quite a few guides and done quite a bit of research but most answers have left to more questions =/.

Also just curious but has there been any announcements regarding future 00 suit releases? I'm really hoping the Raphael Gundam gets a proper seravee.

if you can, spraying would work better and you wouldnt have paint marks, i hand painted some kits a few years back, can't say they look that bad but some paint marks show and like you yourself pointed out it will need thinning, but i find spraying much more effective. you will see a difference depending on the paint but the unpainted red might have some glare the rest of the kit doesnt have, those parts you can get away with hand painting if u wanted. also you cut out the clear parts if u dont want them painted on?

and you mentioned games workshop, you aren't from Australia are you?

[00Q]

Originally Posted by Exia_00

if you can, spraying would work better and you wouldnt have paint marks, i hand painted some kits a few years back, can't say they look that bad but some paint marks show and like you yourself pointed out it will need thinning, but i find spraying much more effective. you will see a difference depending on the paint but the unpainted red might have some glare the rest of the kit doesnt have, those parts you can get away with hand painting if u wanted. also you cut out the clear parts if u dont want them painted on?

and you mentioned games workshop, you aren't from Australia are you?

Thanks for the answers. Only reason i was thinking along the lines of hand painting was cost issues as 00Q+Full saber came to £38 =/. From taiwan. Scottish btw :P

I assume you mean spray on the frame. Makes sense xD

Because of the design of the full saber whatever way it goes its either going to need painted or look terrible. Paints+sprays is pretty much adding on double the cost of the kit which is a bit silly for just my second kit.

Would painting the full saber and leaving the 00Q as is then applying a topcoat look ok? Obviously id be panel lining aswell. I just want my full saber to look uniform texture wise with the 00Q. Sorry for being a pain.

[Appel]

Originally Posted by 00Q

Thanks for the answers. Only reason i was thinking along the lines of hand painting was cost issues as 00Q+Full saber came to £38 =/. From taiwan. Scottish btw :P

I assume you mean spray on the frame. Makes sense xD

Because of the design of the full saber whatever way it goes its either going to need painted or look terrible. Paints+sprays is pretty much adding on double the cost of the kit which is a bit silly for just my second kit.

Would painting the full saber and leaving the 00Q as is then applying a topcoat look ok? Obviously id be panel lining aswell. I just want my full saber to look uniform texture wise with the 00Q. Sorry for being a pain.

if you want an even coat of paint you basically only have two options: spraypaint or airbrushing. if you are good at painting by hand it will look good, too but you cant match the even spray of a can or an airbrush^^

i dont recommend painting the full saber only though. it will look very different from the rest of the model!

about your previous questions:
1. using enamel paint straight from the pot should work out ok but it wont be all that even. you should thin it a tiny bit to make it flow better.
2. for thinning enamel paint you can use lighter fluid. i have the lighter fluid from zippo, that costs about 3.50€. you got to be careful with that stuff though! ill explain that in #5.
3. the unpainted sections would look good. bandais white and red pieces usually look really good, top coat should be enough there. thats how i did it on my MG freedom for the white pieces!
4. yes, you definitely need to mask clear pieces when top coating while the pieces are still on the sprue or put together! top coat makes all clear pieces look foggy and then they basically wont be clear anymore! that is a VERY important aspect to keep in mind when working with paint and top coat!
5. a primer would make sense. lighter fluid can damage the pieces of your model, it makes them brittle. a primer would protect your pieces. however, you can use top coat for that, too! since you dont want to give it a custom color scheme with brighter colors you can top coat it, paint it and then add a 2nd layer of top coat. that way you save the money for the primer :P
6. most definitely yes. for me painting by hand always leaves marks. spray paint and airbrushing give you a WAY better finish!
but if you are good at painting by hand and if you have a good brush then painting it by hand is definitely an option! i have seen people on youtube who paint their models by hand and the results were VERY good! you just need to thin the paint properly. enamel paint doesnt flow THAT well, its rather thick.
paint needs to be thinned so that it is still thick enough to stick to the pieces but not too runny so that it doesnt form paint pools.

[00Q]

Originally Posted by Appel

if you want an even coat of paint you basically only have two options: spraypaint or airbrushing. if you are good at painting by hand it will look good, too but you cant match the even spray of a can or an airbrush^^

i dont recommend painting the full saber only though. it will look very different from the rest of the model!

about your previous questions:
1. using enamel paint straight from the pot should work out ok but it wont be all that even. you should thin it a tiny bit to make it flow better.
2. for thinning enamel paint you can use lighter fluid. i have the lighter fluid from zippo, that costs about 3.50€. you got to be careful with that stuff though! ill explain that in #5.
3. the unpainted sections would look good. bandais white and red pieces usually look really good, top coat should be enough there. thats how i did it on my MG freedom for the white pieces!
4. yes, you definitely need to mask clear pieces when top coating while the pieces are still on the sprue or put together! top coat makes all clear pieces look foggy and then they basically wont be clear anymore! that is a VERY important aspect to keep in mind when working with paint and top coat!
5. a primer would make sense. lighter fluid can damage the pieces of your model, it makes them brittle. a primer would protect your pieces. however, you can use top coat for that, too! since you dont want to give it a custom color scheme with brighter colors you can top coat it, paint it and then add a 2nd layer of top coat. that way you save the money for the primer :P
6. most definitely yes. for me painting by hand always leaves marks. spray paint and airbrushing give you a WAY better finish!
but if you are good at painting by hand and if you have a good brush then painting it by hand is definitely an option! i have seen people on youtube who paint their models by hand and the results were VERY good! you just need to thin the paint properly. enamel paint doesnt flow THAT well, its rather thick.
paint needs to be thinned so that it is still thick enough to stick to the pieces but not too runny so that it doesnt form paint pools.

Alright thats cool. I'll get a can of blue and topcoat, Pot of blue, grey and white (For detailing the kit) and of course a couple of markers.

I'm pretty good at painting kits so a few touchups will be no issue.

Got any recommendations as far as decent tape for masking goes?

And thanks for all the help, i actually have a fairly concrete game plan now.

Also this is speculation but am i right in assuming you can recreate beam weapon effects using clear paint (Which i already have) and the excess of the clear runner?

[Appel]

Originally Posted by 00Q

Alright thats cool. I'll get a can of blue and topcoat, Pot of blue, grey and white (For detailing the kit) and of course a couple of markers.

I'm pretty good at painting kits so a few touchups will be no issue.

Got any recommendations as far as decent tape for masking goes?

And thanks for all the help, i actually have a fairly concrete game plan now.

Also this is speculation but am i right in assuming you can recreate beam weapon effects using clear paint (Which i already have) and the excess of the clear runner?

the best masking tape i had so far was the one from tamiya. that stuff is awesome!

and if you are good at modding stuff then you might be able to recreate those parts with the rest of the runners! :O

[pumpkins]

Originally Posted by 00Q

Thanks for the answers. Only reason i was thinking along the lines of hand painting was cost issues as 00Q+Full saber came to £38 =/. From taiwan. Scottish btw :P

£38 from a shop in taiwan? i thought gunpla was ridiculously cheap there?

[00Q]

Originally Posted by pumpkins

£38 from a shop in taiwan? i thought gunpla was ridiculously cheap there?

Imported via ebay. Importing is my only option. It was £20 for 00 Quanta and £18 for the full saber add on kit. And these were the cheapest prices i could find.

[suiton629]

MG 1/100 Gundam Sandrock EW - Review by YellowSubmarine HobbyShop Blog
http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2011/1...review-by.html

A review on the MG Sandrock EW... Very cool kit. I just wish that these engineering on the model kits were used on the MG Wing EW and MG Wing Zero EW..

>_>