2013-05-21, 08:46 | Link #6702 |
Megane girl fan
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Diagonally parked in a parallel universe.
Age: 55
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Funny moment last night. UTE and I were doing rather badly in our platoon (well, WE weren't doing that bad, but our teams were), so we decided to break it off for a time. The very next game, were were in the same game, on the same side, at the top of the tier list right next to each other, unplatooned.
We went on to win the game. Then we re-platooned up with Q and had some triple-RAM II shenanigans. Good times.
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2013-05-21, 08:58 | Link #6703 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
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You need to research the D-54 to get to the T-62A, yes. The 10T2C is a better gun, but isn't actually required to unlock the tank...
The derp gun on the KV-1: It has a lower rate of fire and a worse aim time than the tier 5 German and American derps, but a higher alpha. The KV-1 may be able to one-shot an M4 or Pz4 with its derp gun, the M4 and Pz4 will need to shoot the KV-1 twice. The problem then becomes who gets a chance to shoot the other first. |
2013-05-21, 09:35 | Link #6706 | |
Nyaaan~~
Join Date: Feb 2006
Age: 40
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2013-05-21, 10:08 | Link #6707 |
The Opened Ultimate Gate
Join Date: Dec 2011
Age: 29
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Clan Wars Campaigns
so anyone want to give a shot at obtain the M60? since it have 4 stages with different tier limit, we don't need all tier 10 to participate.
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2013-05-21, 10:18 | Link #6708 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
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Quote:
explodes Them: "[Sigh...] HEAT rounds..." Me: "Eh, I only use HEAT on your sides and back, your front is too thick." [Emphasis added] The derping KV-1 at close range is a problem for me when I am using the 57mm KV-1, but that's often answered by shooting them repeatedly in weak spots before they get to close range, which the 57mm has the accuracy for, tracking them and using cover at close range, and if I absolutely have to deal with them up close, angling and firing five to six shots into them before they can reload. I'd still rather engage at range. I seem to have terrible luck with Soviet 85mm guns being horribly bouncy at anything longer than spitting distance, except for the 85mm D5T-85BM on the T-34-85 and the T-43. Random lucky moment of last night: Killing a KV-5 at close range with the VK3601H... it bounced at point-blank, I shot its weak spots 11 times (alternating between R2 and the commander's cupola). Though oddly enough only two criticals counted. I say lucky because its ram attempt failed and I was pinned sideways against a hillside. |
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2013-05-21, 10:23 | Link #6709 | |
Ha ha ha ha ha...
Graphic Designer
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Right behind you.
Age: 35
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Sure, I only had about 126 hp after the fight ended iirc, but it goes to show you derp isn't everything. You need to remember to angle and use tactics. For reference to those of you who don't know the armor stats off of your heads: (Front/Sides/Rear) M4 Sherman Body: 51/38/38 Turret: 76/51/51 -Aim at the body, unless you can hit the sides or back of the turret. The sides of the Sherman are its main weak point in a face-to-face battle since they are not angled. Don't shoot the front of the turret unless your penetration is exceptionally high. This tank from the front has few weaknesses to speak of in terms of weak spots, so try to maneuver to hit the sides whenever possible. Pz. IV Body: 80/30/20 Turret: 50/30/30 -Aim at turret, sides, or the ports. Don't aim at the front; it will probably bounce unless you have lots of derp and it is facing you unangled. It is really weak against flankers so if you aim at the back the engine is a massive weak spot, even moreso than the other medium T5 tanks. Take advantage of things like elevation or enemy driver's maneuvering mistakes to capitalize on the weak side armor. Pz. III/IV Body: 60/60/40 Turret: 50/30/30 -Aim at turret's side if you can. If you have really high penetration, aim anywhere on the turret or at the ports. If you can take out the tracks, maneuver so they are not angled relative to you. It makes penetrating the armor on the body way easier. But the turret is probably the easier thing to penetrate, regardless. I know it doesn't seem like much to people, and the 60 front armor would seem to be a disadvantage, but even when you're out in the open, without cover, if you angle correctly you can still bounce shots or reduce damage from a surprising number of things. Unless of course a KV-1S (or other hard-hitting things like TDs) trundles up and one-hits you with his derp gun (in which case your angling does nothing). >_> Then again, Pz. III/IV is mostly good for countering lighter-armored mediums and light tanks. It doesn't have the derp power of the M4 or Pz. IV, so unlike M4's it's a lot harder to take out heavy tanks even if you have the drop on them. In that case, you have to either rely on teammates or your mobility (which is comparable to the Pz. IV, but ever so slightly better).
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2013-05-21, 10:30 | Link #6710 | |
Catholic = Cat addiction?
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: MURICA!!
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Unfortunately, this could not come at a worse time as many people are readying for graduation and finals... - Tak
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2013-05-21, 10:32 | Link #6711 |
Nyaaan~~
Join Date: Feb 2006
Age: 40
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^ You're looking at the base armor stats. The M4's armor is sloped whereas the Pz4 armor is listed as showing only 1) the thickest part of the armor and not the average including large weak spots and 2) is completely flat.
And regarding the Pz3/4, yeah it's a good tank with great armor at its tier, but with the way HEAT works right now you should lose 80-90% of your engagements with fully loaded and equiped M4/Pz4s even if you're angling. Basically if they're not stupid, they should go around you, soak 2 of your hits, fire a HEAT round into your side and switch to HE after so there's no chance of a bounce if you're brawling with them. The reload and aim time on the DERPs are not nearly as bad as you think when you have vertical stabilizers, GLD and rammer..
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2013-05-21, 10:41 | Link #6712 | |
Ha ha ha ha ha...
Graphic Designer
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Right behind you.
Age: 35
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The fact that you mention HEAT rounds is weird. Few people in tiers 5 and below bother to waste the cash they should be saving to buy their upgrades and the next tank. And I seriously don't see many people using HE rounds. And if they are, they are definitely bouncing. If an AP round doesn't penetrate, neither will an HE, though it might do a tiny bit of splash damage. Penetration > Damage in most situations. Damage doesn't help if it doesn't get past the armor. And don't underestimate people's stupidity. I see so many people overextend. I used to be one of them, until I realized I can max my camouflage stats, lie in wait, then shoot people in the engines as they rush past me. I do that all the time in my Pz. I C.
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2013-05-21, 10:50 | Link #6713 |
Nyaaan~~
Join Date: Feb 2006
Age: 40
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^ Almost everyone that runs a Pz4/M4 run them with HEAT on their derp guns. Also, HE rounds do not need to penetrate to do damage, their damage is based on a cone forward from impact point based on splash less absorption by the armor. Even hitting the thickest part of your Pz3/4's armor a 10.5cm HE round will at least do 100-200 damage. A lucky penetration or a penetration from the side or rear will do in excess of 300-400.
Go ask EndlessKnack, Kimi, Teru, etc. about running HEAT on the Pz4/M4s. It's a common issue of being completely overpowered at its tier level and is one of the reasons that it is going to be reworked next patch.
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2013-05-21, 11:08 | Link #6714 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
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I wasn't a huge fan of derp HEAT, and on a Stop Having Fun Guys level I still am not, but in keeping up with the heavily-armed Joneses I've ended up gradually increasing the HEAT load in my derp tanks to the point where I have easily enough to cope with the typical match. I'll still use HE Common for long-range low-probability shots, to finish off open-topped or very weak opponents, or to damage things that are very bouncy or AT 2s, but that's about it.
People waste cash on HEAT at tier 5 because of winrate padding and because there's still a point where you have done enough damage to still make money while firing off 2800-credit shells (premium accounts help). HEAT actually smoothes out the skill curve a bit... due to the near-one-shot-kill chance, a bad player with a HEAT load can do enough damage to offset, well, badness. |
2013-05-21, 11:23 | Link #6715 | |
Ha ha ha ha ha...
Graphic Designer
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Right behind you.
Age: 35
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Quote:
I can only really remember 2 or 3 times where I've gotten shanked by an M4 that was probably running HEAT rounds. Also, to be clear, I don't usually face people head on. If I can flank and fall back, I usually do. The times I die are usually either one-hit derps from heavies or TDs, or me getting treaded and worn down because I've gotten critically hit somewhere important, such as my engine. But for those times when I have to have a slugging match, angling is my best option for survival, because of the Pz. III/IV better side armor. People forget it's not as weak as on other tanks, aim for it, then realize too late that not only is my tank's orientation angled, but in addition my armor on the front and sides are also angled naturally at a 45-degree angle.
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2013-05-21, 12:16 | Link #6717 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
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2013-05-21, 13:05 | Link #6718 | |
Catholic = Cat addiction?
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: MURICA!!
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Quote:
- Tak
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2013-05-21, 13:07 | Link #6719 | |
Japanese Culture Fan
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Planet Earth
Age: 33
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Quote:
Tier 5: I think I've already told you how awesome the ELC AMX is. The only disadvantage it has is the low HP and a restricted turret arc that makes it play like a tank destroyer. Other than that, it has a high top speed, great acceleration, great traction, and an overpowered top gun for its tier. Tier 6: The AMX 12t uses a worse top gun than the ELC, but in exchange has a fully rotational turret and an autoloader which allows you to dish out more damage in a short amount of time. I warn you, though: playing this tank is painful. Unless you're in a tier 7 match, you'll almost never get to carry a losing battle, and you should expect to do less damage than other tanks even when doing well. Also, I rarely scout with this or the 13 75 because of the poor acceleration; I usually hang around base or the support line for the first minute or so of the battle, waiting for an opportunity to flank someone. Tier 7: The AMX 13 75 is pretty much the same thing as the 12t, with even the exact same top gun. I've had a slightly better experience with the 13 75, though. The drum reload is faster, about 15 seconds instead of 20 for the 12t. It also has more HP, which means most enemies can't one-shot you anymore. The matchmaking feels somewhat more comfortable; since tier 8 has more battles than tier 7 or tier 9 due to premium tanks, both the 12t and 13 75 see tier 8 battles a lot, and the 13 75 fares naturally better in them. Haven't gotten to tiers 8-10 yet. My impression from other people is that the 13 90 is good or great (it gets the ELC's high pen gun with an autoloader), the Lorraine 40t is bad or okay, and the BatChat is awesome. |
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Tags |
mmo games, war game, wargaming.net, world of tanks |
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