2013-05-25, 05:57 | Link #942 | ||
Resident yoyoer
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Post-apocalyptic Seattle
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Ahh. Shit.
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2013-05-25, 06:11 | Link #943 | |
Some say I'm the Reverse
Join Date: Jul 2006
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BACK ON-TOPIC: Does anyone have a visual or confirmed link for the Su-47 and Shiranui Phase 3 1/144 Kotobukiya kits?
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2013-05-25, 06:22 | Link #944 |
The Lovable SuBiTA
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sleeping in Yokohama base, Section 9.
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Link for the SU-47. This blog is rather accurate for ML stuff.
http://muvluvtakemi00.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-340.html
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2013-05-25, 08:08 | Link #945 | |
Resident yoyoer
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Post-apocalyptic Seattle
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Also,
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2013-05-26, 00:23 | Link #950 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
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2013-05-26, 01:17 | Link #951 | |||
Some say I'm the Reverse
Join Date: Jul 2006
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...and before you ask "Why would I swing them around and throw them?"---you'd be surprised what some grown men will do at conventions.
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2013-05-26, 01:31 | Link #952 | |
The Lovable SuBiTA
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sleeping in Yokohama base, Section 9.
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2013-05-26, 02:04 | Link #954 | |
ZC6 Eishi
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Honolulu Base
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If you want accuracy, you'll probably want paint if you're a bit OCD. But my UN Shiranui and EF-2000 look fine unpainted to me (my Type-00R however...). I'm working on the SU-37UB right now, but I honestly have no idea what I'm going to do with that one. The decal sheet for the camo is HUGE. You probably SHOULD paint this one if you want the camo, but meh. June93, if you want to see what unpainted looks like, here's my Shiranui: And here's my Typhoon: Like I said, I'm happy with them as-is, but I know more people are less than thrilled with bare plastic. Your taste really. I will say, for some reason, these Koto kits felt much more time-consuming over most Gundam kits I've built. I wouldn't say harder though. |
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2013-05-26, 02:31 | Link #955 |
Some say I'm the Reverse
Join Date: Jul 2006
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- The non-scale kits are bigger and have more colored parts, so it's not as glaringly obvious. If anything, the Non-scale kits probably cover the "Build-straight-out-of-box" theory better.
But he was talking about the 1/144 kits (Of which I have the Shiranui Second Tarisa and Yui's Takemi).
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2013-05-26, 02:37 | Link #956 | ||
ZC6 Eishi
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Honolulu Base
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Thanks for the input on the 144s though, I have the YF-23 on pre-order, and may be reconsidering it. I was thinking about buying one before to see how they compare to the non-scales, but I can't find any pics good pics of what the look like unpainted. But they are relatively cheap.... |
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2013-05-26, 02:46 | Link #957 |
Some say I'm the Reverse
Join Date: Jul 2006
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I'd say go for the one 1/144 kit first and see if you're happy with it. I paint most of my kits anyway, and the reason I'm going for 1/144 is due to the scale match with my existing 1/144 Gundam kits. More often than not I'd hit my kits with White Primer (basically making them all white) and just applying the appropriate paints afterward so that they're uniform in tone and look.
Have built but not finished painting Yui's Takemi (the purple bits are a pain, but based on your experience I think it's true of the non-scale Takemi as well). Didn't paint the entire kit because that particular shade of yellow is hard to do by hand. I've had to put Tarisa's Shiranui on hold while I work on other (non-Muv-Luv, non-Gundam) stuff. Namely two 1/72 F/A-18 Hornets that I've been meaning to do for a long while.
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2013-05-26, 06:51 | Link #958 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
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As an owner of almost all A3s, I can say that the early releases are horrid in terms of articulation since the biceps cannot move, but despite that, the sculpt prevails and I would always try to bring out the best of the figure by maximising what it could do rather than dwelling on its limitations. I do have some large scale Koto Takemis, and they can definitely move their arms the most.
The A3 Raptor, along with the YF-23, were the first ones to have movable biceps. The best articulated A3s would be the F-16 Fighting Falcon frame, MiG-29, and the Shiranui JPS/Second. The Typhoons would fit the description as well. Don't forget that Volks goods, even completed figures are targeted towards experienced hobbyists. Many owners modify their A3 Takemikazuchi to pull off many poses. http://www.geocities.jp/zgmfx23s0307...take00c.01.htm http://www.geocities.jp/zgmfx23s0307...takemi00cc.htm Revoltech TSFs are regarded a budget brand as it s considered inferior compared to other available brands. They have the fixed bicep problem as well. I think the Sci-fi Revoltechs is the best sub-line. My problem with the Revoltech TSFs is that the hand grip becomes loose due to being stretched too much. The fixed weapons hands of the A3s actually look really nice. If you admire the beauty of a TSF, pick A3. If you want gimmicks and decent articulation, go for the Koto Kits. Revoltechs are good for certain poses. I loathed my A3 Typhoon if it is just standing there due to its overly skinny waist, but when it is posed wielding the Mk.57 two handed, the waist is covered by the left arm and it looks gorgeous. Skinny figures always look good in action poses, and this applies to anything that doesn't look good in a static pose. The 1/144 Koto line are generally better looking than their Non-scale counterparts due to revised proportions. The only non-scales that are decent looking are the Shiranui and Typhoon. I am waiting to see whether the broad shoulders look okay on the Su-37. Su-37 review: http://shimrittai.blog.so-net.ne.jp/...013-05-23#more Wow, the legs and shoulders are almost the same level as the Typhoon. Love those rotatable gun mounts. |
2013-05-29, 05:56 | Link #959 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
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Unpainted pvc. Be well aware that the A3/TMC Takemi can barely move, its biceps are unmovable which deters it from extending its arms out.
According to the Kotobukiya Twitter feed, the next kit might be Fubuki, and will be announced in the next Wonderfest. Edit: Koto Shop exclusive Type--00C marketed as an Unlimited character. Maybe they'll get the blue one as well if Ikaruga gets some TSF action in TDA 3. Darn it, thought the Type C head was a resin exclusive from last year. I have my A3 static bicep version, I better learn how to cut and add joints onto that thing. Last edited by calubin_175; 2013-06-01 at 02:06. |
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