Driving (and discussion concerning driving)

[Phantom-Takaya]

Ahh. Yep, it's a B18A1. Non-VTEC as well. Hmm. Before I make any sort of suggestions, what exactly do you intend to accomplish with the swap? Simply lower the mileage, increase the performance, etc?

[mg1942]

I want something as CLEAN as THIS, but on an early 90s integra.

I don't know if there's really more room for improving a honda engine that comes with VTEC. To me a turbo on a VTEC is a big no-no, and forced induction on a really small engine may shorten engine life. A small upgrade on the engine to make it more durable would be nice


EDIT: I also have a weak spot for early 90s Accords. It's just hard to find EX trim (alloy wheels, rear disc brakes) without rust

[Phantom-Takaya]

Okay... This is my third attempt at posting since for some odd reason, I'm having butterfingers and accidently end up hitting the back button and wiping out what I've wrote...

Anyways...

Accords are pretty good daily driver cars, so I can understand why you're mostly finding ones that have body wear on them. Of course, it doesn't mean you won't find one that meets your requirements. You just have to be patient and keep an eye out.

After watching the video and reading what you wrote, just to clarify; You want to make your engine more durable and have higher performance, right?

In terms of durability, you may want to explain what you mean by "small upgrade" since most upgrades that have a great effect in increasing the engine's durability are typically not "small" and run in the triple digit figures...or more. Port and polish is a big one you can have done, but like I said, this also happens to be one of the priciest. Replacing/upgrading the pistons (with rings, and sleeving), camshafts, rods, gears, pulleys, head and a few other things will also help the engine's durability. Of course, it's highly recommended to also upgrade the transmission by replacing/upgrading/adding the clutch, flywheel and possibly even the LSD. It's also recommended that the headers, catalytic converter and exhaust sytem (not just the muffler) be upgraded as well. Also, a fuel management system coupled with an aftermarket air intake will help out with either the engine's performance or fuel consumption (or both, but a bit unlikely) depending on how you set it up.

I would suggest the the B18C1, B18C2, B18C3 and B18C5. They all come from newer generation Integras so you may have to purchase some OEM parts, and you may notice that all but one are in the US. The other is from Japan. The reason I suggested these are because of accessibility and the fact that if you're going to import an engine from another country, you might as well import the where the main manufacturers are situated from. All of them will increase your car's performance to 30-50 HP more than what the integra you purchase may come with.

One other suggestion I have is to purchase one with a stock engine. Reason being is that the chances of the driver(s) before you had not abused the car are higher than those with modifications already installed. Another reason is that if you wish to follow up on the upgrades, it would best to have it done yourself for the sole reason that you know the parts are of new quality, as well as the whole mentality of "it's not really your car if the modification was done by someone else."

Of course, these are simply suggestions and I'm sure there will be others who have other suggestions that may or may not contrast mine.

[FLCL]

Originally Posted by mg1942

I want something as CLEAN as THIS, but on an early 90s integra.

I don't know if there's really more room for improving a honda engine that comes with VTEC. To me a turbo on a VTEC is a big no-no, and forced induction on a really small engine may shorten engine life. A small upgrade on the engine to make it more durable would be nice


EDIT: I also have a weak spot for early 90s Accords. It's just hard to find EX trim (alloy wheels, rear disc brakes) without rust

sorry do your research first

vtec is very good with turbos as long as you TUNE it. You can make vtec engage when your turbo fully spools enchancing the speed of your car.

With hondas its imperative that you build the head if your going to turbo at a bare minimum, greatly increases life.

do you even know how a turbocharged car works?

Bang for power buck you CANNOT beat a b18b1 turbo. you can run 12 psi around 300 whp on stock internals and las t80-100k miles.

i love peoples brash "turbos and vtec are bad" statements ^_^.

Remember with all power mongering its 15% the parts 85% the quality of the tune.

ill edit in a picture of my engine bay in a sec. This is before i cleaned it up a bit and installed a new radi, tranny cooler, etc. 17 psi boost, high 400s in hp. Ive also since gotten rid of my ghetto IC piping and mounted my BOV in the last pipe before the TB.

[Phantom-Takaya]

It might be best to ease up on him. He's only asking for suggestions and advice.

If he doesn't want turbo, then so be it. Everyone has their preferences. Everyone has their own driving style.

I used to run with turbo, but decided against it after a while. I got tired of just driving in a straight line, so it only made sense that a lot of horsepower and torque became less of a concern.

For people who like to drag race, you can never have too much horsepower and torque. But for other people who like other type of racing, "too much" horsepower and torque is simply too much. Mind you, there's also too little horsepower and torque as well.

But you're right about the fact that despite all the parts you upgrade/replace, tuning the car properly plays a big factor.

As for the picture, is that a Lexus? Definitely not a 2JZ engine with a Lexus emblem on the head. I see a red top Optima, piping for the intercooler and a ram air-injected turbo. Looks like it's quite a big car compared to my Civic. Not bad.

I settled for the yellow top since it's geared more towards the performance of the car than entertainment, which was what the red top was being sold for.

[FLCL]

um phantom......sc300s came with a 2jzge. Go check it out.

thats just my battery cover color.

93-96 had nonVVTI 2jzges, 97-00 had VVTI obd2 2jzges.

The SC300 forward of the rear seats is IDENTICAL to a n/a supra. people have actually gotten new front supports and done a full supra hood, fender, headlight conversion.

The 2jz also came in the is300 and GS300.

its a pretty big car, mine with some minor weigh reduction comes in @ a tick under 3200 lbs.

sry for going overboard, just i get somewhat anal from my hondatech days.

more lexuses come with a 2jz variant than toyotas. If the celica had a 4cyl variant like a sr20 240sx , toyota wouldve clean swept the 90s

im just waiting until justinstrife sees this thread and owns us to death.

[Strahan]

I've been driving manual for twenty years, and I've never used the clutch to hold my position on a hill once in all that time. When I come to a stop on a hill, I just stop. Holding the car with the clutch is a bad idea, unless you like burning clutches up. I never drift more than an inch or so when I start to move, it's not that hard to get going once you get some experience with a manual.

Street racing is pretty stupid. The only way I could see it being OK is if you found some deserted piece of road and you have spotters at both ends for traffic control. I hate the stupid ricer boys that fly around my neighborhood having watched too much F&F. If they want to risk killing themselves, fine, just leave other people out of harms way.

Wanna talk about big cars, hehe, I used to have a BMW 7 series. It was a great car, fun to drive and cozy but maintenance was killer. On the fourth time fixing a $1500 issue I called it quits and sold it.

Originally Posted by Phantom-Takaya

Accords are pretty good daily driver cars, so I can understand why you're mostly finding ones that have body wear on them. Of course, it doesn't mean you won't find one that meets your requirements. You just have to be patient and keep an eye out.

No doubt. After I sold my 7 I was hunting for a decent third gen (86-89) Accord hatchback. Took me three months before I found one that wasn't either rusted out, beat to piss, or riced beyond return. While I sorely miss the BMW luxury and power, I really like the Japanese reliability hehe. In the last nine months I've only had to change a half-shaft and a ball joint. I also get 15 more mpg. But I do sorely regret having 200 extra horses missing from under the hood lol.

[FLCL]

i agree 100%, i only race on the track. although occasioanlly OCCASIONALLY if pushed on the highway.

[Phantom-Takaya]

Ahh. An SC300. I didn't even think of that. It's probably due to the fact that I avoid considering vehicles that seem to be "luxury" equivalents of some cars, which Lexus cars tend to be to Toyota. I even didn't think about the RSX, which is a "luxury" equivalent to my generation Civic, until I researched the best possible swap for my car.

Considering that I street race - though not as often as every weekend nights - what my team specifically likes to coordinate is find an area where there are barely to no cars around at the time of hour, block (or attempt to) an adequate stretch of road or a large enough area, and communicate with each other through walkie-talkie for any interference such as a police car nearing the vicinity or a car coming by. For the other groups of racers, if they don't have their own walkie-talkies, we'd give them cheap ones since at least one tends to have a bad habit of not returning their walkie-talkie. We try to keep it safe to people outside of the "street racing world."

In fact, I've made it a rule within my team not to do anything stupid like practice any maneuvers or speed in a neighborhood. Safety is one of the primary concerns the team upholds. If people in my team want practice, there's the track or areas we can find that are safer, such as a parking lot.

Of course, not everyone complies, and those are the F&F wannabes that endanger other people's lives. And those are the people that I personally think are a disgrace and deserves what's coming to them. It doesn't happen in my team anymore since we emphasize this to the new people who join, but when the team was still new, we always ended up either placing the person in a probationary period where they're on the brink of either being kicked out if they continue to do foolish things or we simply kick them out depending on how bad their actions were.

[FLCL]

I only race on the highway occasionally, almost 99% of the time @ the track. Im actually going to be sponsored with parts from a local auto shop starting next year. no more ghetto greedbay parts!

street racing is just too dangerous. Yes im guilty, ive done it more than i shouldve, but idk lots of bad things. The worst is that someone tail gates you home and steals your car/anything bad.

Im also part of a team, a track team, were Highaltitudeimports

togue is even worse, a friend of mine with a red top sr20 s14 was racing with friends spotting him the pass, when a deer walked into the road, he tried to do an inertial drift to avoid, but ended up rolling about 30 feet in his car instead. His 8 points roll cage and 6 point harness saved his life.

[MidnightViper88]

Some people street race for pink slips, but I street race for respect, because for some people that's more important!

[FLCL]

um...ive never EVER heard of people irl racing for pink slips, this isnt F+F broski.
I race on the highway because punks in there mustang Gts or Evo 9s think theyre the shit because theyre parents/rich uncle bought it for them. I show them whats up if they get aggressive. your 220 hp aint so hot! ^_^.

[MidnightViper88]

Originally Posted by FLCL

um...ive never EVER heard of people irl racing for pink slips, this isnt F+F broski.

I guess you don't have Paul Walker on your mind or you would find my quote F&F...

[Phantom-Takaya]

Heh. My business sponsors my team. Parts for free advertising. Another reason why our rules in the team are pretty strict with how we drive in a daily driving situation.

My team is called X Underground Racing. Not extremely original, but that was the point.

It's true that there are some crooked groups of racers. Two of the well-known ones are Elite and Northern Rush. They both have youtube videos as well. Just find them by searching their name and "racing Alaska." The first jacks or guts cars, while the other does some underhanded dealings. There's a few others, though the names escapes me at the moment.

That's actually one of the reasons why we go to... (brace yourself) Denny's... before we break off and go home. If we have people following us, they'll end up having to wait while giving us time to find out whether or not they're really following us. If we're still not too sure, we break up into groups in the directions we're going home to and keep our cell phones and walkie-talkies on. I also tell everyone that if they value their cars, don't just leave it on the side of their street or on their driveway.

My team's not very forgiving to any of our teammates who end up doing highly questionable things like that. If they don't take responsibility and show that they're not going to do what they did anymore, not only do they get kicked out instantly, but they may be reported to the authorities depending on how bad their actions were. The only things we're okay with is street racing and taking bets.

I refuse to race my car's pink slip. Approximately $50k of parts and labor isn't something I'm willing to just dangle out there even when I have a 100% guarantee that I'll win. I don't care if my opponent puts in their pink slip, but the most I'll go is bet the amount of money their car is worth just to be fair.

For some people, the risks are what makes racing fun. The idea is just to reduce the risk to simply the racers and no one else.

There is some good that comes out of street racing when it comes to accidents; I've had a battle with a moose and it won...then lost. My car ended up with $6,000 worth of body repair and nearly got me with its horn through the sunroof if I had hit it head on, but the police ended its misery... and I unintentionally fed a lot of homeless people that night. Strangely enough, that was the moment that I wasn't racing at all, but heading home from work. This was a year before my engine swap, thus no roll cages at the time. The cop actually said that if it wasn't for the maneuver I pulled, he was sure the call he got would have been one with my fatality. He was right. If I didn't swerve and induced a powerslide, instead of the moose tripping and rolling off the passenger side of my car, it would have simply landed on the windshield/roof of my car.

[FLCL]

if you spent that much why didnt you get a Supra for RX7 XD. or a motorex skyline.

i kid i kind mpg is good.

but yeah im very careful in general, i have a garage, and if ive been @ the track or highway pulling I always wait somewhere 3-4 blocks away from my house to check for followers.

the insane thing is my car is one of the slower cars, I run in the 12s with a max speed north of 160mph, yet our team has 2 9 second civics, a 10 second mirages an a bevvy of 11 second cars...Im so slow compaired to them, but i DD mine, only a few of them do.

[Phantom-Takaya]

I'm not sure what my car's top speed is, honestly... I stuck with the stock speedometer, so I don't know how fast my car is going after the needle passes the 150mph point...

I actually did buy an '89 Supra for my brother...though it's in the midst of being worked on and he's not allowed to touch it because of bad grades. He just turned 18 four days ago. I'm considering having a 2JZ-GTE engine dropped in, though I'm not sure how much the chassis has drastically changed or if there's anything out there available to make the swap possible without having to do any custom fabrication. I might just sell the Supra and get the next generation up if it becomes available to buy. (Barely any Supras up here.) Or, I might just entirely buy a whole different car for him.

One of my teammates owns the second (FC) and third (FD) generation RX-7 as well as a well-known performance shop owns quite a bit of RX-7s.

Other than a Tacoma for winter, camping and utility usage, I'm considering buying a 2002 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am, and toyed with the idea of dropping the LS9 engine from a 2009-2010 Corvette in once it's available in the next two years. Of course, I'm in no rush to do all these immediately.

[FLCL]

eww domestics XD

dont go 2jz in a MK3, get a 1jzgte, far easier swap and makes similar power.

I have a 99 impreza as my DD, im going to STI v4 swap it in the future. Bunta hooo!!!

12 days till initial D extra stage 2!!!!

[Phantom-Takaya]

Honestly, the only domestics I can respect are the muscles and trucks. I've had the other types break down too much.

1JZ's a single turbo if I remember correctly, so it has less power. I'm pretty open to better alternatives if one is presented before me.

Heh. As I said before, my daily driver is my Civic, and since I drive around my city and even travel to other cities for my business, the police cars see me a lot. I guess when they hear a car with aftermarket exhaust system and air intake approaching, then see that the car has a carbon fiber hood and vinyl/decals on the side, they expect it to do something illegal and follow it around to have the chance to ticket it.

[FLCL]

takaya, do your research yet again

twin turbos make far less power on v6s than single turbos, because they are smaller and sequential, Whereas single turbos make lots of power as the turbo itself is larger and more powerful.

the 1jz is a twin i believe with ct26s.

[AMDX1325]

Originally Posted by FLCL

sorry do your research first

vtec is very good with turbos as long as you TUNE it. You can make vtec engage when your turbo fully spools enchancing the speed of your car.

With hondas its imperative that you build the head if your going to turbo at a bare minimum, greatly increases life.

do you even know how a turbocharged car works?

Bang for power buck you CANNOT beat a b18b1 turbo. you can run 12 psi around 300 whp on stock internals and las t80-100k miles.

i love peoples brash "turbos and vtec are bad" statements ^_^.

Remember with all power mongering its 15% the parts 85% the quality of the tune.

ill edit in a picture of my engine bay in a sec. This is before i cleaned it up a bit and installed a new radi, tranny cooler, etc. 17 psi boost, high 400s in hp. Ive also since gotten rid of my ghetto IC piping and mounted my BOV in the last pipe before the TB.

How's the turbo lag on that thing? I see ur intake sucks air from engine bay, shouldn't CAI work better with colder air + turbo?