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Old 2009-04-28, 08:29   Link #12941
Tormenk
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Join Date: Jul 2007
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I'll go with the second design. The wide breath fits well with the bulky feel of the Virtue and the blades have enough area to cover it in intricate designs, which would go well with the warhammer theme.
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Old 2009-04-28, 08:47   Link #12942
Vandalier
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it's give me dillema

because design one have the chaos lord mark
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Old 2009-04-28, 09:37   Link #12943
vektar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vandalier View Post
it's give me dillema

because design one have the chaos lord mark
I liked the 3rd one myself. Simple yet effective.
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Old 2009-04-28, 09:40   Link #12944
MrCapcom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vandalier View Post
done with the shaft
the only thing left is the blade of the axe






ok i need your help guys
plz pick one of these three design



or you can also give me your design
IF your designing the blade yourself why not have the dragon part the head and wrap his tale on the pole and have his wings in such a manor to llook like the blades of the axe
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Old 2009-04-28, 09:41   Link #12945
Amber.Dawn
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I think the second fits Virtue better. Although I prefer single bladed weapons myself.
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Old 2009-04-28, 10:40   Link #12946
nevenacheese
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finaly done with sanding and washing the pieces of the blitz 1/144 i mentioned here earlier.... i was lucky that he mainly used water based paints so i could wash it out....

but that brat also used an heated screwdriver to remove the parts that connect to te frame/window... the area is now an mm thinner.....
and is it normal to have seamlines larger then 1-2mm? i tried to sand and adding layers where needed but still theres a clearly visible seamlime....

and for the new painting:
can i directly paint on the plastic or do i have to add an base layer?
and i normaly paint kits by taping the places i dont want to paint and then remove the tape..
is this also possible for gunpla?
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Old 2009-04-28, 10:56   Link #12947
JayCee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevenacheese View Post
finaly done with sanding and washing the pieces of the blitz 1/144 i mentioned here earlier.... i was lucky that he mainly used water based paints so i could wash it out....

but that brat also used an heated screwdriver to remove the parts that connect to te frame/window... the area is now an mm thinner.....
and is it normal to have seamlines larger then 1-2mm? i tried to sand and adding layers where needed but still theres a clearly visible seamlime....

and for the new painting:
can i directly paint on the plastic or do i have to add an base layer?
and i normaly paint kits by taping the places i dont want to paint and then remove the tape..
is this also possible for gunpla?
Sounds like to get rid of the seamline you need cement specifically for plastic kits to melt the 2 pieces together and then layer with putty and sand to give a smooth look. Well that's a no-brainer method to me. Though you can feel free to try a different method.

As for painting you can paint directly onto plastic. Although priming is usually recommended so that the paint adheres to the plastic better and it also shows any surface errors or incorrections with seams etc. Yes you can use tape to mask areas. Be sure to use masking tape though.
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Old 2009-04-28, 15:12   Link #12948
rocawarde
Gundam Mechanic
 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
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Hi, I'm new to the forum. and i have to ask if anyone know of any websites that show Gundam Mocs?!!? especially from Gundam 00?

Something similar to this: http://www.modelers-g.jp/
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Old 2009-04-28, 16:53   Link #12949
ryanvamp
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what is the best to "correct" the seamlines, btw? Cause the only one I know (putting cement and then scratching the left-over from the seamline, not exactly how it's done but you get the idea) messes up the kit if you're not going to paint it later.

On an additional note, since some pieces tend to break when you try to dissamble your model, I guess the erasing of seamlines is one of the first steps while putting the kit together, right ?
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Old 2009-04-28, 20:05   Link #12950
Karidzka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kasagi Yabu View Post
hmm..ok thanks everyone! I think I'm going to start off with an HG like everyone is suggesting. I love the strike so I think I may start with that. Accguy is simple I'm sure but I never liked that suit to be honest.
... don'tstart with HG fromm seed series, they have a lot of problem

HGUC is a better one ....

well 00 HG also good, but UC better lol
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Old 2009-04-28, 20:49   Link #12951
Okamidum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karidzka View Post
... don'tstart with HG fromm seed series, they have a lot of problem

HGUC is a better one ....

well 00 HG also good, but UC better lol
Just curious, mind elaborating on why the seed HG's were bad. I agree with the 00 and UC though. 00 really impressed me.
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Old 2009-04-28, 23:00   Link #12952
Kelrys
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Just for beginners, HG Seed needs more painting, most parts are molded in one color. I think 00 HG is better.
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Old 2009-04-28, 23:48   Link #12953
jackyng222
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Thanks, I just needed to know that. The extra finish freedom should look better with panel lines.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JayCee View Post
If you're relativey quick you can erase the markers. But they tend to leave some sort of smudge or residue behind anyhow. I usually avoid using them and just use paint instead. However because of the finish it should be extra runny compare to usual so gives you a little more time to wipe off in case of accidents.



If you really are a beginner. You should really start at High grade model rather than MG even though most people would say MG isn't hard. Yes putting together a gundam even at perfect grade isn't hard if you're just snap fitting everything. Doing it properly requires some skill. Erasing seam lines, sanding, cementing pieces together, puttying, prime & paint, panel lines, coating etc. Stuff like that is best on practising on a more affordable basis like the HG models until you get you're skills up to scratch. I may sound longwinded but there is no easy way to climb up a progress ladder in anything so it obviously applies to gunplay too. You can't just take a ladder and expect to be at the top without putting effort into climbing it. Start off right and you won't have to go back and relearn things from scratch again at a later date.

Once you're confident on at least say working with panel lining, sanding and coating as bare minimum then I would think about MG grades. Unless of course you have a lot of mulah to spend on Gunplay and doing mind messing a few in the progress of learning your skills.

Though if you must start off with MG. Try any of the original RX-78 series. The frame and general bulk and less sophistication makes it less of a work when it comes to removing seam lines and panel lining.

That's my 2 cents anyway
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Old 2009-04-29, 00:14   Link #12954
GrahamAker
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whats the difference between nu gundam and hi nu gundam?
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Old 2009-04-29, 01:51   Link #12955
Rising Dragon
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Originally Posted by bhus12 View Post
whats the difference between nu gundam and hi nu gundam?
Apparently, completion. The Nu Gundam is supposedly an incomplete suit; the Hi-Nu Gundam is the completed version of the Nu Gundam, which appeared in the novel, Beltorchika's Children. Other differences are the paint scheme and cosmetic details in the armor, along with specialized racks for the Fin Funnels, and different weaponry.
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Old 2009-04-29, 02:16   Link #12956
JayCee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocawarde View Post
Hi, I'm new to the forum. and i have to ask if anyone know of any websites that show Gundam Mocs?!!? especially from Gundam 00?

Something similar to this: http://www.modelers-g.jp/
Not sure what you mean by mocs. I'll assume you mean mod. Try hobbyfanatics forum. Quite a few veteran builders hanging around there showing WIP and completed models

Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanvamp View Post
what is the best to "correct" the seamlines, btw? Cause the only one I know (putting cement and then scratching the left-over from the seamline, not exactly how it's done but you get the idea) messes up the kit if you're not going to paint it later.

On an additional note, since some pieces tend to break when you try to dissamble your model, I guess the erasing of seamlines is one of the first steps while putting the kit together, right ?
Cement and puttying is pretty much the correct way to do it. Along with a lot of sanding to follow. It's not something you worry about messing. Because if you are going to work with puttying you're expected to be painting anyway.Also yes erasing seamlines is pretty much one of the earlier steps along with any modifications you wish to slap onto your kit. However here's a tip when it comes disassembling kits without breaking it. Most parts have the piece of plastic that slots into other pieces right? Snip it at an angle so that it can fit into the slots where it should go but not enough for it to be tight fit. That way you can assemble and disassemble without worrying about breaking. Then when you're ready with whatever you need to do you can start to get rid of seamline and cement etc. Usuaully I do that for pieces like the head where it's almost impossible to disassemble so I snip the extension piece that slots in at an angle so it's not a tight fit.
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Old 2009-04-29, 08:03   Link #12957
ryanvamp
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I see, good advices as always Jaycee. Thanks. I'll guess I look for videos on youtube about the matter, since it's always a good guide also
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Old 2009-04-29, 08:35   Link #12958
Karidzka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelrys View Post
Just for beginners, HG Seed needs more painting, most parts are molded in one color. I think 00 HG is better.
and there is seamline that's hard to remove



ahh MG IJ looks so cool lol
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Old 2009-04-29, 17:38   Link #12959
Sir Dearka
Inglourious Buster
 
 
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Arche release! My last Gundam purchase until anything interesting surfaces (which'd probably be released in August or later, probably).


Taken from ngee khiong:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_dW7jdVzJn8...0990491464.jpg

The fang containers can be opened.
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Old 2009-04-29, 21:21   Link #12960
LordStrike
Gundam Meister
 
 
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ill prob will buy the arche gundam and 2 0 gundam i will paint one like the roll out version and leave the other one last ep colors
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